Tuesday 8 April 2014

Festivals Part 3 – Complete Bollocks

Long Ago and Far Away in Enchanted Lands across the seas lived Kings and Queens, Princes and Princesses, Good Fairies and Wicked Witches, Ferocious Giants and Gentle Dwarfs, Dodgy Priests and Giant Pink Phalluses.

In ancient days, an Aino chieftain of Iwanai went to sea in order to catch sea-lions, taking with him his two sons. They speared a sea-lion, which, however, swam off with the spear sticking in its body. Meanwhile a gale began to blow down from the mountains. The men cut the rope which was fast to the spear. Then their boat floated on. After some time, they reached a beautiful land. When they had reached it, a number of women in fine garments came down from the mountains to the shore. They came bearing a beautiful woman in a litter. Then all the women who had come to the shore returned to the mountains. Only the one in the litter came close to the boat, and spoke thus: "This land is woman-land, It is a land where no men live. It being now spring, and there being something peculiar to this country of mine you shall be taken care of in my house until the autumn; and in the winter you shall become our husbands. The following spring I will send you home. So now do you bear me to my house."

Thereupon the Aino chief and his sons bore the woman in the litter to the mountains. They saw that the country was all like moorland. Then the chieftainess entered the house. There was a room there with a golden netting, like a mosquito-net. The three men were placed inside it. The chieftainess fed them herself. In the day-time numbers of women came in. They sat beside the golden mosquito-net, looking at the men. At nightfall they went home. So gradually it got to be autumn. Then the chieftainess spoke as follows, "As the fall of the leaf has now come, and as there are two vice-chieftainesses besides me, I will send your two sons to them. Yon yourself shall be husband to me." Then two beautiful women came in, and led off the two sons by the hand, while the chieftainess kept the chief for herself.

So the men dwelt there. When spring came, the chieftain's wife spoke thus to him: "We women of this country differ from yours. At the same time as the grass begins to sprout, teeth sprout in our vaginas. So our husbands cannot stay with us. The east wind is our husband. When the east wind blows, we all turn our buttocks towards it, and thus conceive children. Sometimes we bear male children. But these male children are killed and done away with when they become fit to lie with women. For that reason, this is a land which has women only. It is called woman-land. So when, brought by some bad god, you came to this land of mine, there were teeth in my vagina because it was summer, for which reason I did not marry you. But I married you when the teeth fell out. Now, as the teeth are again sprouting in my vagina because spring has come, it is now impossible for us to sleep together. I will send you home tomorrow. So do you tell your sons to come here to-day in order to be ready."

The sons came. The chieftainess stayed in the house. Then, with tears streaming down her face, she spoke thus; "Though it is dangerous, to-night is our last night. Let us sleep together!" Then the man, being much frightened, took a beautiful scabbard in a bag in his bosom, and lay with the woman with this scabbard. The mark of the teeth remained on the scabbard. The next day dawned. Then the man went to his boat, taking his sons with him. The chieftainess wept and spoke thus: "As a fair wind is blowing away from my country, you, if you set sail and sail straight ahead, will be able to reach your home at Iwanai." So then the men entered their boat, and went out to sea. A fair wind was blowing down from the mountains, and they went along under sail. After a time they saw land; they saw the mountains about Iwanai. Going on for a time, they came to the shore of Iwanai. Their wives were wearing widows' caps. So their husbands embraced them. So the story of woman-land was listened to carefully. All the Ainos saw the beautiful scabbard which the chief had used with that woman.

The chieftainess spoke thus: “From this day on, a celebration will be held to celebrate the return of our husbands to us so that we may bear children. But also let it be known that they were unfaithful to us. And should any man be deceitful in this manner to his wife, he shall be punished and his penis bitten off and shown to all men in warning.”

To this day a yearly festival is held in which a large metal phallus in a boat, representing the “safe” return of the chieftain thanks to his scabbard is paraded through the streets along with all the noise making that accompanies a good festivals in Japan.

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The metal phallus represents the scabbard that protected the man in the story and shows that he is still virile. It is carried in a boat showing the faithful and safe return of the husbands to their wives, even across great distances.

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The pink non metal phallus carried by women shows the punishment that awaits unfaithful husbands. On the day many lollipop like sweets in the shape of a phallus are eaten to again reinforce the message of what will happen to men who stray.

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A young woman walks alone at the head of the parade wearing the “widow's cap”. It is said that the wives believed their husbands had been taken by the Tengu (the red faced devil) who thus stands between her and any children she might have had represented by the young girls in the white and orange robes.

I have taken the story above from Aino Folk-Tales by Basil Hall Chamberlain. He was an anthropologist who studied the Aino and Japan in the 1880s and collected a series of stories and folk-tales on one of his visits. Modern Aino (also Ainu) live only in the northern island of Hokkaido although it is believed that they once occupied a much larger area of the Japanese mainland until they were gradually forced northwards.

On another note it’s cherry blossom season again and since it is basically illegal to not take a picture of one when they are blooming…

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Saturday 29 March 2014

Relax in the evening with a can of…

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The drink that’s cheap to buy, easy to drink and only one typo away from being a complete marketing failure*.

*salt

Wednesday 26 March 2014

Festivals Part 2 - Setsubun

Setsubun 節分 is the last day of winter in the Japanese calendar, falling on February the 3rd this year. I had heard of the festival before but didn’t know what you actually did until my housemate explained it to me. The first time she explained it she said that we had to run around the house throwing beans at each other. Since I’d never heard of this I thought she was making it up and trying to play a trick on me. It turns out she was joking after all. What actually happens is that someone first puts on an Oni (demon) mask and then they run around the house while everyone else chases after them and throws beans at the demon. As you chase the Oni out of the house you shout Oni ha soto! Fuku ha uchi! (Demon out! Good luck in!). Since there were four of us we teamed up and took turns wearing the masks and throwing beans to purify the house.

After chasing the demons outside and slamming the door you have to eat the same number of beans as your age (obviously not the beans that you’ve just thrown all over the house) for good luck. Next you face a specific direction, this year it was East North East and eat a long roll of sushi all in one go without talking. This meant that the four of us had a very strange evening meal as we ended up staring at the wall in complete silence while eating sushi. However, I am assured good luck and strength for the rest of the year so it was probably worth it.

I much prefer running around throwing beans to carrying massive pieces of heavy wood on my shoulder for several hours. In my book that makes it a good festival to follow and look forward to it again next year.

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Demon masks and sushi rolls.

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Scary Demons.

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Banished Demons.

Tuesday 25 March 2014

Festivals Part 1

In Japan festivals are often held in to get the local community together. There are variations, but a common theme is for everyone to make a massive and extremely heavy portable shrine with a heavy wooden frame called a mikoshi. A few street blocks will get together to build one, then meet up with other groups and march through the streets shouting and generally making a lot of noise. It seems that the specific god you carry a shrine for is not really that important as long as the frame and shrine are very very heavy. This is probably so you can show your devotion and willingness to suffer to the shrine’s god. They are really very heavy.

Of course merely carrying them through the streets is much too easy and you must continuously rock it from side to side and bounce it up and down on your shoulders. Since I’m somewhat taller than the average Japanese man I was asked to help at the back with the frame sloping down towards the front slightly. Since there weren’t many others as tall as me I ended up getting my shoulders constantly battered by the frame. At some points the shoulder of the person in front of me wasn’t even touching the frame. Crouching down didn’t work either as it just ended up destroying my thighs. Interestingly having your shoulders repeatedly battered by a chunk of wood in the rain (of course it was raining) doesn’t cause much visible bruising but it does turn the skin on your shoulders rather scaly, which leads to the skin flaking of a few days later. There were a few brief rests to watch some taiko drumming and afterwards there was a small meal provided where everyone has the chance to talk with each other, or just sit there exhausted. But mostly the festival seemed to be about carrying a really heavy thing for several hours. It must be one of those cultural differences.

IMG_3299 He’s not even touching it!

IMG_3303 Even my shorts are drenched in sweat.

received_m_mid_1379317497839_e93fcb48b9feb31369_3We really didn’t have enough people.